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Technical Topics.
FITTING THE AUTOTUNE SUPPLIED SPLIT SCREEN Using the centre pillar grommet as a template, mark the centre pillar drilling positions as far forward as possible on the scuttle centre line [See sketch 1]
Drill the necessary clearance hole, make a simple support bracket [See sketch 2] and fit the central pillar and grommet using a set screw of the correct thread size and length.
Using the side pillar grommets as templates, mark the side pillar position cut outs as far back as possible on the scuttle. Trial fit the glazed panels in the centre pillar channels, using them to mark the side pillar cut out positions equal about the centre pillar. [See sketch 1] The supplied side pillars will not lie at the same angle as the fitted centre pillar without substantial grinding of the pillar mounting faces, enlargement of the scuttle cut outs and shortening of the side pillar legs in the engine bay. The amount of machining required can only be determined by regular trial fitting. All machined faces of the pillars should be sealed with clear lacquer on completion. The supplied side pillar mounting brackets [designed for the standard flat screen] should be modified or replaced to suit the angle of the side pillar mountings in the engine bay. [See sketch 3]
Bolt the side pillar support bracket base plate, complete with packing plates, to the pre drilled chassis mountings. Offer the new R.S.A. upright to the side pillar lower legs and base plate, mark out for new/existing drillings. Remove the side pillars, drill the lower legs and new R.S.A.’s as previously marked, reassemble the complete screen with the R.S.A.’s bolted to the side pillars. Tack weld the R.S.A. to the base plate while in position, unbolt and remove the side pillars, remove the brackets and complete the welding of the R.S.A.’s to the base plate. Assemble the complete screen and brackets, remove or reduce the depth of the packing below the side pillar brackets until the screen is pulled firmly down on to the scuttle. When the desired screen position has been achieved, loosen the end pillar brackets sufficiently to remove the glazed panels, run a silicon seating bead down the channels of the pillars and make the final assembly Trim the rubber strips fitted to the glazed panel to suit the pillar grommets, seat the strips to the grommets and scuttle with silicon. Cautionary notes 1] The windscreen assembly comes complete with countersunk set screws for securing the outer pillars to the glazed panels. These screws are of different lengths and must be used in their correct tappings, which should be blown clean to avoid damaging the glass. 2] The dimensions given are as per my car an may very slightly on other builds.
It is possible to use the 'fly off' handbrake from an XJS, which is a nice looking chrome unit, and has the advantage that it always rests in the lowest position making entry/exit easy. The unit can be used complete with its cable without any alteration to its length. Even the fittings to the rear axle don't need to be changed. One grommet through the aluminium paneling is all that is required. The micro switch is also identical to that used on a series 3 XJ6 donor car so will allow the 'handbrake on' facility to be connected to the wiring loom. The only drawback is that the unit is quite long, making it a long reach from the seated position. Don't be tempted to mount the handbrake as far back as possible otherwise forward travel of the seat will be restricted by the height of the unit. It is best to fit the drivers seat and reach a compromise ensuring that the seat will travel forward far enough for the shortest driver. An adjustable arrangement can be made, as per sketch below, to allow the position to be fine tuned using the handbrake brackets on the chassis.
Installing electric windows.
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